Credit Score Ranges Explained: From 300 to 850 (Full Chart)
What counts as good, very good, or exceptional credit — and exactly what each tier unlocks in interest rates, deposits, and approval odds.
The FICO score range chart
Here is the standard FICO 8 tier breakdown that most US lenders use, plus what each band typically means in real-world approvals and rates.
| Score Range | Tier | % of US Adults | What It Means |
|---|---|---|---|
| 800 – 850 | Exceptional | ~21% | Top-tier rates on every product. Lenders compete for you. |
| 740 – 799 | Very Good | ~25% | Better than average rates. Most premium cards approve. |
| 670 – 739 | Good | ~21% | Considered an acceptable borrower. Average rates. |
| 580 – 669 | Fair | ~17% | Subprime. Approved but at higher rates, may need deposit. |
| 300 – 579 | Poor | ~16% | Denied most unsecured credit. Secured cards / co-signers only. |
VantageScore uses identical numeric tiers but slightly different labels (Excellent, Good, Fair, Poor, Very Poor).
What each tier actually costs you
The gap between tiers isn't cosmetic — it's measured in tens of thousands of dollars over a lifetime.
30-year fixed mortgage on $400,000 (current spreads at typical 6.5%–8.0% market):
- 800+ score: 6.50% → $2,528/month → $510,178 interest
- 740–799: 6.72% → $2,587/month → $531,494 interest (+$21k)
- 670–739: 7.13% → $2,696/month → $570,672 interest (+$60k)
- 620–669: 7.66% → $2,839/month → $622,063 interest (+$112k)
- 580–619: 8.65% → $3,113/month → $720,673 interest (+$210k)
The same pattern applies to auto loans (3–7 point APR swing), credit cards (15–30% APR swing), and personal loans.
What unlocks at each tier
800+ Exceptional. Every premium card approves. Best mortgage and auto rates. Apartment landlords skip the deposit. You can negotiate.
740–799 Very Good. Practically the same approvals as 800+, with rates roughly 0.1–0.25% higher on mortgages. This is the sweet spot — chasing 800 rarely earns you more.
670–739 Good. You'll get approved for most things, but you'll pay average rates. Premium cards (Amex Platinum, Chase Sapphire Reserve) may decline you, especially in the lower half of this range.
580–669 Fair. Considered subprime. Auto financing often requires a co-signer or larger down payment. Unsecured cards exist (Capital One Quicksilver, Discover It) but with smaller limits and 25%+ APRs. Apartments often require an extra month's deposit.
Below 580 Poor. Conventional mortgages off the table (FHA still possible at 500+ with 10% down). Auto loans only through "buy here pay here" at 20%+ APR. Secured credit cards are your rebuild path.
How fast can you move up a tier?
- 30–60 days: Pay down a card to under 10% utilization. Can move you 20–60 points.
- 6 months: Add an authorized user account, get a secured card, dispute any errors. 40–100 points possible.
- 12–24 months: Establish 12+ months of on-time payments on a new tradeline. Add a credit-builder loan from Self or your credit union.
- 7 years: Most negative items (late payments, collections, charge-offs) age off your report automatically. Chapter 7 bankruptcy ages off at 10 years.
What lenders see beyond the number
Two people with a 720 can be very different borrowers. Lenders also see:
- Depth of file — how many tradelines, how old
- Recent inquiries — 6+ in a year is a red flag
- Mix of credit — installment loans + revolving is better than only one type
- Income vs debt (DTI) — the score doesn't see income; the lender does
A 720 with $80k in credit limits and a 5% utilization will run laps around a 720 with one $1,000 card maxed out.
The realistic goal
For 99% of consumers, anything above 740 is functionally equivalent to a perfect 850. Stop optimizing once you cross that line and focus the energy on paying down balances, building emergency savings, and investing.